Long Live Peladeira – Climbing in Brazil

Mountain friends Clare and George have done it again. The two have put their climbing stuff and have traveled in distant Brazil. While they did is aimed, to repeat the big wall line “Diedro Peladeira” (800 m, 7a, A2 +, E4) at the Pedra Riscada in Brazil as a first. Whether the “Manuel letter bare wall” into the heart of Brazilian jungle beat Klara and Georg and the logistical challenges are in the way, they introduce yourselves.

The Brazilian adventure climber Eduardo Belo Horizonte receives us with mixed feelings. Enthusiasm about that finally someone may want to repeat his big wall line on the Pedra Riscada, but strong dubiously, whether the two “Gringos” with this enormous challenge to cope. “You have no 6 Camalot? You have no Talon? Do you have any…?” So it goes for quite a while. All questions will be with a long “Hmmmm…” commented. We jointly look at pictures of the first ascent, while he tells the compelling story of his “Diedro Peladeira”. All hooks of a total of 17 pitches were taken from the four initial loading walkers with hand – admirable in and of itself. There are but not commercially available anchors by a few millimetres diameter, but that for Brazil, thick Grimpou – 14 mm – Brummer. “In the best of times, I’ve made seven Grimpou on the day”, Eduardo told proudly. But what are already seven hooks at over 800 metres of climbing. After the hook intervals we don’t need to ask. Since only the eyes helps to, and through, we are finally no Gringo soft eggs.

Logistical challenge 2.0 – “bail on the approach”?

But wimps? Majestically rises behind barren pastureland, protected by a narrow strip of jungle, the huge Granite dome. “Pedra Riscada” means something like “the striped”, because of the conspicuous water grooves, moving from the foot of the wall up to the Summit. The granite Queen of Minas Gerais is breathtakingly beautiful. A different mountain makes us for the time being more worried about – how should we up hauling all the material to the jungle and these under the wall, let alone up the vertical wall? As I hoist me the huge bag on the back, I drown felt 10 cm into the ground. All this is probably the reason why the few climbers who here take it, dear “place of happiness” repeat: five minutes up to at 15 minutes car distance to the accommodation with running water, beds, refrigerator and Eddie’s loving delivery service. Clearly the “Manuel letter bare wall described in German articles” with “incredible logistical challenge” better way to “our” side of the Riscada.


Jungle OASIS

The air in the jungle, a world apart is refreshingly cool. The tall trees with its huge leaves form a private, comfortable microclimate in the stifling heat of the outside world. With lichen and moss covered stones, ferns, shrubs, trees – everything is intertwined with Creepers. The color green is it in all shades, in between colorful flowers and butterflies. Were not these gnats only it: hundreds, they throw themselves at us. In other words, in the strenuous climb better getting into movement remain! No breather goes unpunished. We build our base camp on a large, flat stone in the Dry Creek bed. So we still feel foreign, in this strange world of jungle with their unfamiliar odors and noise, is the lower them us soon at the heart grown. The forest throbs, he lives and provides everything we need – water, protection and a place to recharge your batteries. The base camp is our little OASIS.


With the machete by the thicket

The strenuous climb to the foot of the wall is like a torture. By steep jungle, here and there, two times by a narrow way between the large stones on a smooth rock bouldering. Without Eduardo, we would have certainly needed days to find a good path through the thicket. Nevertheless the pathing remains a challenge – at the big tree links, on the Cactus right. The loads trafficking has nevertheless advantages: our feet find their way soon as by itself and at the same time we are slim and fit for our big projects.


Weakness or strength?

Manuel letter bare stronghold Riscada: a 1200 metre high, compact wall with a circumference of more than 12 km. There are only a few logical lines, one of them is the steep crack intersection on its west wall, who moves up to the flat part of the wall up. Here whether we can talk about a “weakness” of the wall? Doing so simply looks this crack intersection, it has its pitfalls. The gap grew to consistently with MOSS, bushes and spiny bromeliads, to secure the rock surface often brittle and bad friends. In the steep part of the wall therefore predominantly technical climbing is announced, for us a new experience. With Talon and Cliff, it’s partly crumbling structures through the compact wall. “Ziiing” say goodbye again and again a backup, a side of the body exists in a void. A short shock runs through the body – holds at least the second fuse or is it again rapidly downhill? A poker game for the nerve that is kraftraubender than any free climbing. So we come forward only slowly, the daily deposit of mental power not particularly long enough. Also the Sun bounces relentlessly at noon on the west wall, we FRY as two piece of bacon to the pan. So we are forced to a fairly leisurely pace and discover the delights of slowness. For hours, we look into the distance, listen to the jungle, watching the monkeys and the Eagles. There is also time enough to rethink strategy: first target is the small ledge above the eighth pitch, where we build our ABC with the Portaledge. Then we reward ourselves with a long break in the base camp and fill our water supplies before we give up the ground to defeat the upper part of the wall.


The sow must up

No wonder the Yanks call affectionately “pig” their haul! As a multiple-car train hanging bag and Portaledge on the wall, it might be ;-D a Deutsche Bahn train Nothing stirs. I’m moving and hoist, not one millimeter moves the load. The sobering insight, I can’t like it. Load split and multiple haulen? No thanks! My body is simply transformed into the counterweight for the bags. I drive down jerkily, as the material moves upward. First of all, it seems that I’ve got the less strenuous work this time. The thing has only a small catch: I must get back to the top. Gone stupid, I may eight pitches in the end several times jumaren. An entire day sweaty work later we’re finally as in the Eagle’s nest on narrow two square metres in the middle of the wall and enjoy a giant sunset. Suffering and joy on the Bigwall climbing are often quite close together.

Long live Peladeira - climbing in Brazil-2


Finally free climbing

From here, there are more free climbing passages also again. By overhanging cracks, overgrown fireplaces of scales along – most beautiful adventure climbing friends and co. The days go by length to length, we slowly approach the friction plates in the upper part of the wall. We look forward to easy terrain – but the hook? Rather, the missing hook make mentally challenging easy terrain. The further gaps leave up here the hair one. Better not fail. As a step-by step training this wall, each stage builds on the learned the previous. Well, that the nerves in the A2 +-area have been trained. Slowly the rock of coming back until we once again face a jungle Strip. A lush vegetation with bushes and lichen adorns the Summit of Riscada legendary trees. The feet sink deep in moist soil, when we are on our way to the highest point. “You’re up until you reach the tops of the highest tree”, Eduardo joked. Go to Brazilian tradition we shimmy us so from branch to branch up, until it goes no further: Summit!

Long live Peladeira - climbing in Brazil-1

Lies have short legs

So simple we don’t get off Eduardo – through our photos we need to prove to him until we have truly reviewed his line. Up to the Summit photo on the highest tree he commented the images again with his long “Hmmmm” – this time with a benevolent, laudatory tone. Beer and Cachaça, we sit in the warm wind of the street bar. In the head, Eduardo reviewed his big adventure with us and enjoy our experiences to the fullest. In the early hours of the morning we are debating the pitches and the problems of the wall. Satisfied, he congratulates the first repetition – a unique adventure. Also, we have made a new friend.


Material recommendations:

  • Tendon master 7.8mm (half ropes), master 8.9 mm (single rope), semi-static rope 10.0 mm
  • Singing rock climbing harness, helmet, carabiners, Expressen, shuttle, climbing AIDS, pulleys, cliffs
  • Totemcams and basic Totemcams, Camalot, friends
  • Triop Tiger shoes
  • Optimus Polaris stove (petrol and gas) with Optimus Terra Lite HE cook set pots
  • Jetboil, Portaledge, haul