Many people’s favorite in the watch world, they are models created for or inspired by flight, both in blue as green clothes. Feature-driven, minimalist design with a clear and masculine appearance and many savory stories makes bells for cockpit use has a special aura of adventure. Something that we in the two parts will look at.
Not only the first pilot watch but also the first men’s wristwatch is Cartier Santos, introduced 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont who tired of fiddle with Pocket Watch when he flew, and then got a piece dedicated to itself as previously reserved for ladies (and sparsely hopmekade fickursbastarder); Watch. Ironically became Santos-Dumont with time, distressed and depressed at seeing how his passion, aircraft, increasingly become an arms and military equipment, which in the end along with that he fell ill in MS did that he did kill himself. Just the fact that the world’s armed forces understood the benefits of flygetyg turned out to be a part of the development of the bells.
The men’s wristwatch was developed over time into something both useful and socially accepted, and in the mid-thirties, it was an established phenomenon. During this period came the first functionally-driven pilot watches from IWC, Breitling and Helvetia – bigger, sturdier watches with strong glass, grinding wheel and not least antimagnetisk balance to keep accuracy even in aircraft interference-rich environment. With the forties and WWII came the need for even more advanced, robust and precise clocks for flygbruk which, not least, the IWC was a tonsättande player with the development and production of a number of watches that have become cult and classic; both German Grosse Fliegeruhr as British Land 11 is available as updated models in the range. Two German companies manufactured at the same time pilotkronografer which both received a well-deserved place among the classics; both Tutima and Hanhart (with its characteristic red kronografknapp) equipped Luftwaffe.
During the fifties the exploding interest in flight, not only military but also civilian with the establishment of many airlines and new types of aircraft that made air travel to an opportunity. For pilots on both professional and hobby level was one of the big news Navitimer from Breitling, a model that was not only a Venusutrustad Chronograph, but also integrated pilot E6B calculator clock-in designed by and with interest group AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) who immediately did the clock to its official clock, which allowed advantageous purchase for members. Breitling Navitimer is today flagship model and has been updated with the husegna B01-work. On the military side got among other things nice brand Breguet in behalf of the French naval aviation to develop a kronografmodell which became the Type XX that even today remain as elegant and retrodoftade lyxsportis in the Breguet range.
During the same decade, as a result of the ability to move long distances in an East-West direction was also watches with 24 h-functionality or GMT-display a great help. Pan Am sought help from Rolex and the almost mythical Marketing Director Rene Paul Jeanneret who developed the GMT-Master with the ability to display two time zones, one in 24 h format. Subsequently, the model has, under the name GMT-Master II, become gifted with the ability to view a third time zone. A similar idea was developed, as the name suggests, it also specifically for pilots, of Glycine in the form of Airman. Both Airman as GMT-Master also became popular among pilots in the USAF during the Viet Nam war as an alternative to bad, assigned watches thanks to its durable and functional characteristics.
In the next section, we look more closely at what happened during the sixties onwards. Thrilling!
Breguet Type XX
Breguet Type XX 2
Pilot with Glycine Airman
IWC Grosse Fliegeruhr